tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59128513205411980952024-02-06T18:47:41.627-08:00StomachBrainFood Blog written by Max B. Lang in Rockville, MD on Cooking and Eating in the Metro D.C. AreaMaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.comBlogger21125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-31636069783643581482012-12-05T20:58:00.001-08:002013-02-27T09:29:41.939-08:00Great Chinese in RockvilleI was sitting with a group of people the other day and one of them mentioned that they were headed to China in the near future and that they were looking forward to the food. Another of the group mentioned how "real Chinese food is totally different than what we have here." "You can't get the real stuff unless you go there," declared a third.<br />
<br />
That instantly got me riled up into a food-nerd tizzy because that particular declaration is a total load. A load which it will be my pleasure to dispel right now in this post.<br />
<br />
I've shared this list of excellent Chinese restaurants in Rockville with lots of folks and I've never been told that any of the recommendations failed to meet either expectations or standards.<br />
<br />
To be clear, I've not been to China but those who have will certify these spots as being virtuous in their authenticity.<br />
<br />
<h3>
Here's List of Great, Authentic Chinese Food In Rockville, MD:</h3>
<a href="http://www.aj-restaurant.com/">A&J Chinese Restaurant</a>, across from Best Buy on Rockville Pike serves great Northern-style dim sum. Saturdays and Sundays are packed with Chinese families enjoying rich, spicy soups with house-made noodles. There are small plates packed with cold-sliced pork and beef, smoked chicken, pig ear, thousand year egg with tofu, and steamed pork buns. For veggies there are cucumbers in spicy garlic sauce, tangy pickled cabbage, mixed veggies with baby corn, wild mushrooms, setan and soy skins, and soy beans mixed with cooked greens. Fried pork chops and chicken thighs are crispy, salty, savory and served with rice and powerfully-pungent mustard greens. The best part? It's super cheap. Like $10 per-person cheap.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.joesnoodlehouse.com/">Joe's Noodle House</a>, along the side of the strip mall across the Pike from the Container Store, has been considered a top Sichuan-style Chinese restaurant for years. Their mapo tofu is fantastic - spicy and numbing. Their salty-spicy fried squid with garlic and jalapeños is the best around! They offer a dish called "crispy squid lips." If you can show me the lips on a squid, I'll give you five dollars. Joe's also offers a nice frequent buyer program for those who pay with cash. Totally worth your while.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/china-bistro-rockville">China Bistro</a>, near Montgomery College, makes spectacular dumplings. Really, these things are ridiculous. Ji Cai, beef and celery, shrimp and chive, Mama's Special...all of them unique and rich and steaming hot. Served with a vinegary soy sauce and "hot" (that ubiquitous jar of chiles in oil with the cute little spoon and lid) they are hot and juicy. You can try not to eat too many of them, but trying doesn't help. You're going to waddle out no matter what. The cold mixed vegetables, soy skins and cucumbers with garlic are great small plates to keep your dumplings company.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.scjinriver.com/">Sichuan Jun River Restaurant</a>, formerly Sichuan Pavillion, makes remarkable Sichuan-style food. It's located just outside of Rockville Town Center's north end. If spicy is your thing, this is your place. Their General Guan's Chicken makes General Tso's seem about as spicy as a bowl of rice. This is another super place to get authentic mapo tofu and their deep fried spicy tofu is tip-top, too. They also do some very special stuff with vegetables, especially in the Stir Fried String Beans with <a href="http://jessieandthegiantplate.com/blog1.php/ya-cai-sichuanese-pickle">Ya-Cai</a>, a pickled mustard green stem, which delivers a surprising burst of salty, intense fragrance. You should eat here. <i>You should have been eating here for years!</i><br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.washingtonpost.com/gog/restaurants/bobs-noodle-66,1096810.html">Bob's Noodle 66</a> is super-authentic Taiwanese. They have a great lunch special featuring two entrees and a soup/stew for about $25 and it's got plenty of food for two people. The menu's got a pretty steep authenticity curve in that you won't find much that feels familiar to the American palette - I LOVE that aspect of this place. There's stuff like jelly fish, loofah (sponge), and stinky tofu. The menu's got a steamed fish in wine sauce which is light and sweet. Their soups and stews are very good, too. Service can be spotty, but get past that and you're in heaven.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.eastpearlrestaurant.com/">East Pearl</a>, across from Wintergreen Plaza is, apparently, Hong Kong. Try the roast duck, the walnut shrimp, the spicy shrimp dumplings, string beans, and the spinach. The sliced boneless pig knuckle is wonderfully porky and is served with crispy pickles. Their hot pots - lamb in a deep brown sauce with water chestnuts and one with salt-dried fish and tofu - are unique and strong in flavor. There's a long list of hot and cold appetizers and many Chef's Specialties, all of which seem appealing and each that I've tried have been delicious.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.yelp.com/biz/silver-fountain-silver-spring">Silver Fountain</a> in Aspen Hill makes great dim sum. They've got excellent versions all the standards plus some dumplings that you won't find in most other places. Their chicken feet are tender and flavorful. If you decide to try them anywhere, do it here. The <i><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lo_mai_gai">Lo Mai Gai</a></i> is a gem of glutinous rice with bold inclusions of duck and sausage. It gets busy, so get there early or be prepared to wait. Order off the menu for solid Cantonese favorites.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://www.tonylinsrestaurant.com/">Tony Lin's</a>, in the same strip mall as Sports Authority, is known by most as a great place to get solid American-style Chinese food. What most people don't know is that they have an <a href="http://www.tonylinsrestaurant.com/index.php?i=2">authentic menu</a>, too! Go in, order items off the American menu to be safe and then order an item off of the authentic menu to be adventurous.<br />
<br />
Also, for great Chinese teas, try <a href="http://www.tenren.com/maryland.html">Ten Ren Tea</a> in Wintergreen Plaza.<br />
<br />
Did I miss your favorite? Share it in a comment!Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-52610719382183841782011-08-30T21:04:00.001-07:002014-11-12T08:21:43.003-08:00Simple Roasted Chicken<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102891776090298744564/SimpleRoastedChicken?locked=true#5644537065345237250" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-17J_aMIhuAc/TlVsjg1twQI/AAAAAAAAAco/Fv0Q1v940XA/s200/IMG_20110824_172128.jpg" height="200" width="149" /></a></div>
Buying a whole chicken take guts. Lots of people think they're gross or messy or hard to cook. Or maybe folks are scared because of the myths about fancy preparations or deathly-dry results.<br />
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>Let's be really clear: Anyone can make a killer roasted chicken.</b></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Thomas Keller, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thomas_Keller">fancy chef extraordinaire</a>, developed my favorite <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EWLt6G85zC4">roasted chicken recipe</a>. It's my favorite because it's dead simple. I've never screwed it up and, so long as you pay attention to the timer, neither will you. Yes, I promise.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
Here's what you <i>need</i> to do. (I've left out steps from the video because I have no patience.) </div>
<div>
<a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102891776090298744564/SimpleRoastedChicken?locked=true#5644585135019129970" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kmnLKjfoq1w/TlWYRiVD_HI/AAAAAAAAAd0/uvzX6w6HnGw/s200/IMG_20110824_190121.jpg" height="200" width="148" /></a><br />
<ol>
<li>Buy whole a 3-5lb chicken.</li>
<li>Remove the bag of innards* then rinse the bird, dry it and let it warm to near-room temperature.</li>
<li>Set the oven to 425-450 degrees</li>
<li>Season the inside of the bird <b>liberally</b> with salt pepper and whatever else you like; garlic, herbs, whatever.</li>
<ol>
<li>Avoid stuff like lemon or liquids which would increase the moisture content of the air in the oven; that's a crispness killer.</li>
</ol>
<li><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HpSPfuJQVOA">Truss</a> or tie the bird (I use two toothpicks to hold the legs together)</li>
<li>Place it in a sauté pan or use my method and suspended the bird over the pan using a stainless steel cooling rack.</li>
<li>Season the outside of the bird <b>liberally</b> with salt, pepper and your dry spices, if desired.</li>
<li>Place the chicken in the hot oven and set your timer to 40 minutes (your mileage may vary here)</li>
<li>Remove when cooked.</li>
<ol><a href="https://picasaweb.google.com/102891776090298744564/SimpleRoastedChicken?locked=true#5644584182387768018" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-BcUYqkoge78/TlWXaFgC-tI/AAAAAAAAAdU/0TZAt7vTPj8/s200/IMG_20110824_191856.jpg" height="200" width="149" /></a>
<li>If your bird feels undercooked - it may feel soft when you press the breast or the juices may run pink instead of the desired clear - return it to the hot oven for 5-10 minutes depending on your needs.</li>
</ol>
</ol>
<div>
The result of this process is crisp and juicy every single time we've tried to make it. You'll notice that our finished bird was already missing its wings and tail by the time we took the picture. Those parts are to be eaten immediately. <i>They're the best parts and you are not obligated to share them.</i></div>
<div>
<b><br />
</b></div>
<div>
The bird was cut into parts and pieces and served with asparagus and mashed potatoes.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
This recipe is too simple not to try. Go buy a bird and let me know how it turns out.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
*Do what you will with the innards. All of it is worth eating grilled or sauteed in butter.</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<br /></div>
</div>
Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-39322046387976614942011-07-31T19:26:00.000-07:002013-02-27T09:56:11.510-08:00Kat's Italian Ragu<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9HKoCQwdgM4/TjVueB1SjPI/AAAAAAAAAW8/SmPluG9Xzuk/s1600/IMG_20110731_110127.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9HKoCQwdgM4/TjVueB1SjPI/AAAAAAAAAW8/SmPluG9Xzuk/s200/IMG_20110731_110127.jpg" width="149" /></a></div>
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e3fV5xUHRNo/TjV0zaQVQMI/AAAAAAAAAXY/xM8w87mrmuo/s1600/IMG_20110731_112839.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-e3fV5xUHRNo/TjV0zaQVQMI/AAAAAAAAAXY/xM8w87mrmuo/s200/IMG_20110731_112839.jpg" width="149" /></a> Kat grew up eating her Nana's tomato gravy on lucky weekends. Everyone in the family swears this stuff was the thing of joy. Interestingly, Nana was totally devoid of Italian blood. Nana was the daughter of a Native American lady and a Frenchman. And true, it was joy none the less.<br />
<br />
Kat has made great red sauces in the past, but never one that took a swing at a traditional Italian version: The version where she makes "her" sauce - her style, her taste - but focuses on pasta and sauce as a first course and then serving a platter full of meltingly-tender meats of varying species and body part as a second course. The original version is beef meatballs and chicken sausages but she's just turned back to eating pork so she took a trip to the grocery for inspiration.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sPvGafG5EYA/TjV3mLAqemI/AAAAAAAAAX0/GPRYHFiPZQw/s1600/IMG_20110731_113912.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sPvGafG5EYA/TjV3mLAqemI/AAAAAAAAAX0/GPRYHFiPZQw/s200/IMG_20110731_113912.jpg" width="149" /></a>She hit the Harris Teeter and came back with a meat maven's mash-up of hot pork sausage, beef short ribs, lamb stew meat and a pork tenderloin. That's a lot of fatty meat with the exception of the tenderloin. Deciding to gild that particular lilly, the tenderloin, just a bit we butterflied it, pounded it flat and sprinkled in salt, pepper, shaved garlic, torn basil, re-hydrated raisins and toasted pine nuts. That was rolled and tied as best I could. I am terrible at trussing - no patience, all spaz.<br />
<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ryNZDXLdLU/TjV5qL9U8EI/AAAAAAAAAYo/XKlje0B8SuE/s1600/IMG_20110731_114858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ryNZDXLdLU/TjV5qL9U8EI/AAAAAAAAAYo/XKlje0B8SuE/s200/IMG_20110731_114858.jpg" width="149" /></a>The meats - lamb, pork rollatini and short ribs - were seasoned and seared off with the sausage in a big aluminum pot with a generous portion of olive oil. Each side bronzed, removed and set aside. Kat left the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Deglazing_(cooking)">fond</a> and rendered fat in the pot for step two.<br />
<br />
The second layer of flavor came from aromatics: onion and garlic. These were browned simultaneously and, when cooked, Kat added oregano, pepper, italian seasoning, basil, tomato paste and secrets. This was cooked together, formed a deeper, darker fond which was deglazed with red wine. This simmered down until the alcohol aroma disappeared from the steam.<br />
<br />
Three cans of tomatoes - 1 crushed and 2 pureed - were added to the pot and the whole mess was stirred. The meat was added back in and the temperature was turned to high. Once the pot's contents came to a messy, enthusiastic bubble, the heat was turned down to medium low and we walked away knowing that all we could do now was screw it up with unneeded attention.<br />
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-4ryNZDXLdLU/TjV5qL9U8EI/AAAAAAAAAYo/XKlje0B8SuE/s1600/IMG_20110731_114858.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br />
</a><br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9d0Gndx3UP8/TjXPqRaddDI/AAAAAAAAAa0/aQoIVyM3agc/s1600/IMG_20110731_175602.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" height="149" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-9d0Gndx3UP8/TjXPqRaddDI/AAAAAAAAAa0/aQoIVyM3agc/s200/IMG_20110731_175602.jpg" width="200" /></a></div>
<a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pcx69SnyRdE/TjXYX8vbkAI/AAAAAAAAAbI/e5CaBTFC97Q/s1600/IMG_20110731_183324.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="200" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Pcx69SnyRdE/TjXYX8vbkAI/AAAAAAAAAbI/e5CaBTFC97Q/s200/IMG_20110731_183324.jpg" width="149" /></a>6 Hours later the bright-red oil was skimmed from the sauce and we pulled the meat from the gently bubbling pot and let it sit on a plate in a warm place on the stove. The meat from lamb pieces and beef ribs had mainly fallen off the bone and these remnants were stirred, disintegrating, into the sauce.<br />
<br />
Spaghetti was boiled and bread was toasted. The sauce was ladled over the pasta which was heaped high on plates. The flavor was big and bold and meaty. The sauce was velvety and with all the different fats it coated the spaghetti really nicely.<br />
<br />
I hope Kat makes this again. Every Sunday. Forever.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-55341754119678120562011-07-31T10:21:00.000-07:002011-07-31T10:21:43.029-07:00Pork All Broken Down<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0XWPht98IKx5PqCdGvqzcld85qornYRFyj46-71Plj_o5dJMpbb_1ZWZZ5V7uKW8no5PQBcXSJrSHmt2bj_iH2qr9wK5ORaU9PLaT9JrUF6_dqehVnD96t43EJVNL26TjIcnb51oD3M/w609-h401-k/Pork+Chart.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="419" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjP0XWPht98IKx5PqCdGvqzcld85qornYRFyj46-71Plj_o5dJMpbb_1ZWZZ5V7uKW8no5PQBcXSJrSHmt2bj_iH2qr9wK5ORaU9PLaT9JrUF6_dqehVnD96t43EJVNL26TjIcnb51oD3M/w609-h401-k/Pork+Chart.png" width="640" /></a></div>Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-50322460267948273792011-07-29T18:19:00.000-07:002014-03-27T07:54:06.948-07:00Here's a Crushed, Toasted BBQ Chicken Sandwich<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SO8ysBhqrd0/TjNTQOQ9-FI/AAAAAAAAAUc/x0hz0N1xGc0/s1600/IMG_20110729_203735.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SO8ysBhqrd0/TjNTQOQ9-FI/AAAAAAAAAUc/x0hz0N1xGc0/s320/IMG_20110729_203735.jpg" height="238" width="320" /></a></div>
Crushed, toasted BBQ chicken sandwich with avacado, sprouts, tomato, lettuce and garlic/caper mayo was dinner tonight.<br />
<br />
The chicken was marinated in BBQ sauce during work, seared on the grill for 6ish minutes (2-3 minutes a side) and then left to bake in a closed grill for 10 minutes then cool for 4.<br />
<br />
Rolls were toasting to a crisp on the top shelf of the grill while the chicken baked.<br />
<br />
BBQ chicken, avocado, sprouts, salted tomato, lettuce and garlic/caper mayo were layered on. The sandwich was closed and crushed then handed to those in attendance.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-35820898611599886222011-07-28T21:33:00.000-07:002014-03-27T07:58:10.796-07:00101: Refrigerator SoupTimid home cooks take note: You can’t screw up refrigerator soup.*<br />
<br />
Even in the heat, Kat and I have been turning to refrigerator soup because it can be light on calories and still pack crazy flavor thanks to flavorful meats and fresh summertime veggies. It can be super simple or you can spice it up with seasonings and aromatics like onions, garlic, cilantro, chiles or lemongrass to take it wherever in the flavor-spectrum that you want to go.<br />
<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V5uUtiNiPCc/TjI24bCDt_I/AAAAAAAAATQ/0pxsn_YyEdc/s1600/IMG_20110728_201610.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-V5uUtiNiPCc/TjI24bCDt_I/AAAAAAAAATQ/0pxsn_YyEdc/s320/IMG_20110728_201610.jpg" height="320" width="239" /></a></div>
It’s called refrigerator soup because it’s great for cleaning out wide swathes of the edible contents of your fridge.<br />
<br />
The work time is 15 minutes. Cook time is an hour and the recipe is simple: oil, low-sodium broth or water, seasonings and aromatics you like to taste; and things you like to eat.<br />
<br />
It’s easy to get more specific, but the idea is to make what you like. It really is that straightforward.<br />
<br />
Tonight, we used:<br />
Olive oil<br />
Dry Seasonings: salt, pepper, old bay seasoning, dried Italian seasonings, bay leaves, thyme<br />
Wet seasonings: Pickapeppa sauce, Worcestershire sauce, canned diced tomatoes<br />
Things we like to eat: Onion, Carrot, Celery, Cabbage, Green beans, Zucchini, Andouille chicken sausage<br />
<br />
Prep: Get out a pot and put it on the stove. Chop up the things you like into edible sizes.<br />
<br />
Procedure:<br />
<br />
1. Put about 3 tbsp of oil in a big pot (6-8qts) and heat on high<br />
2. If you’re using raw meat, season and brown that on all sides and remove it for later<br />
3. Add dry seasonings you like to taste and let them saute in the remaining oil<br />
4. Stir occasionally for 2 minutes until the smell fills the kitchen<br />
5. Add aromatics and cook<br />
6. Add the rest of the things you like to eat<br />
7. Wait 4-5 minutes then stir so the hot what you like to eat is on top<br />
8. Wait 4-5 minutes, add salt and stir thoroughly, scraping the bottom of the pot<br />
9. Add the wet seasonings, stir and cook for 3 minutes<br />
10. Return browned meat to the pot or add pre-cooked meat now<br />
11. Cover with broth or water (2-3 quarts) and bring to a boil<br />
12. Reduce to simmer and cook for 30 minutes<br />
13. Stir, taste and adjust seasonings if needed<br />
14. Continue simmering until things you like to eat are tender<br />
15. Portion, serve, eat.<br />
<br />
That’s it.<br />
<br />
It’s so easy that you have to try. What will yours have in it?<br />
<br />
* It's almost impossible to mess this up. All that can really go wrong is that you make too much. This happens when you’ve added too much salty, sweet, spicy or acidic flavor and you end up having to balance the taste and then add extra broth or water until it’s edible. Avoid this by using restraint at first and then adding more seasoning once the soup has been simmering for at least 30 minutes. Then fix it up right if you have to.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0Rockville, MD, USA39.0839973 -77.15275780000001839.0502168 -77.199034300000022 39.1177778 -77.106481300000013tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-78951642070029363202011-03-20T18:45:00.000-07:002011-03-20T18:47:26.656-07:00Pantry Productions: Cracker with Anchovy and Apricot Jam<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJK0UZzN1mMRZKcP1f-hlwpDn0SITZDLzcoNt-i5u1HuyBfBl9_nX_e3_6crXy3oiGiuUGV3EIiR7VNtHvvi3JYW-xV_yPT8woDqJroNBluogm5cxv_ojb8Ukmn_NkSq1Ub2Ycejyd58/s1600/cracker+with+anchovy+and+apricot+jam.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear:right; float:right; margin-left:1em; margin-bottom:1em"><img border="0" height="239" width="320" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJK0UZzN1mMRZKcP1f-hlwpDn0SITZDLzcoNt-i5u1HuyBfBl9_nX_e3_6crXy3oiGiuUGV3EIiR7VNtHvvi3JYW-xV_yPT8woDqJroNBluogm5cxv_ojb8Ukmn_NkSq1Ub2Ycejyd58/s320/cracker+with+anchovy+and+apricot+jam.jpg" /></a></div>Dinner was roasting and I needed flavor, fast!<br />
<br />
I reached into the cabinet and grabbed stoned wheat crackers, a tin of Cento brand anchovies and some apricot jam. It's crispy and bright; sweet and salty.<br />
<br />
I thought that is tasted awesome but Kat was recently up from a nap, didn't have fish on her mind and so I need somebody else to confirm this.<br />
<br />
Look, I wouldn't recommend this if I didn't think it was damn tasty.<br />
<br />
Will you try it and report back?Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-1865740936774719932010-03-09T17:57:00.000-08:002010-03-09T19:30:09.026-08:00Eaten: Dragon Fruit<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmOVg6Vfk5BOGs90w0we4OnZ-RFntzpqHxUKeIw3hrgQUzuIJSqapYQzQrQofj05eEZvDTYcq3WMZSvl4w9Ut5_X3UHhzHzh_yhENB21zUsKM-8eAQ3sPoQ3MVoMMt55YZOPG92OIcOEM/s1600-h/P1000993.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmOVg6Vfk5BOGs90w0we4OnZ-RFntzpqHxUKeIw3hrgQUzuIJSqapYQzQrQofj05eEZvDTYcq3WMZSvl4w9Ut5_X3UHhzHzh_yhENB21zUsKM-8eAQ3sPoQ3MVoMMt55YZOPG92OIcOEM/s320/P1000993.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446825575748659682" border="0" /></a>Tonight I had a hot date with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitaya">dragon fruit</a>. I got it at H-Mart, a Korean grocery in <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">Gaithersburg</span>, MD, and I paid a $6.50 for it. For an individual piece of fruit it was pricey, yes. But for an eater who has, in a moment of weakness, paid $4-plus for one fresh passion fruit, the decision was not subject to budgetary consideration or rationale.<br /><br />Besides, look at it. It's one of the freakiest looking fruits that you can eat. And <span style="font-style: italic;">you</span> <span style="font-style: italic;">should eat it</span>.<br /><br />Dragon fruit is a variety of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pitaya"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">pitaya</span></a> so it grows on cacti. It grows in arid places like Mexico, central, and south America - where it originated - Israel, Australia and all over southeast Asia. It is known to offer health benefits, too, such as vitamins A, B1, 2, and 3 along with come C for good measure. Anti-oxidants, too!<br /><br />But that wasn't the point. The point was the flavor and the adventure. I grabbed my big knife and made one cut from top to bottom, unveiling seed-speckled, creamy-looking flesh. Some dragon fruit has red flesh. Mine was white and the satiny appearance was just a show. As I ran a big spoon between the flesh and the skin - the way you would an avocado - there was a nice crispness and plenty of juice.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmrzzn0kq5N5L5mqBe5xzw4tNXsSi-vJUaK-07h76S7MCH2jiTw0xlx_UAY6v9lETP1fkAkmYC2wEh-0ULsvmpFgYmmh1HY1MYrg_0NSYSJabM-gr3wDHraj1PAczrzuoAZIZRwlAwoh8/s1600-h/P1020004.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 10px 10px 0pt; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhmrzzn0kq5N5L5mqBe5xzw4tNXsSi-vJUaK-07h76S7MCH2jiTw0xlx_UAY6v9lETP1fkAkmYC2wEh-0ULsvmpFgYmmh1HY1MYrg_0NSYSJabM-gr3wDHraj1PAczrzuoAZIZRwlAwoh8/s320/P1020004.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5446841532557947138" border="0" /></a>This dragon fruit's texture had the crispness of an Asian pear or fresh watermelon with the added pop of tiny, crispy seeds - like a kiwi's. The flavor was light with a bright, clean citrus tone. One could argue that, flavor-wise, it is a cucumber's sweet and tropical analog. It was nice and sweet with just a bit of tang. I think it tasted like a pear-kiwi hybrid which is cool because I love those fruits individually, too.<br /><br />Dragon fruit is easy to prepare and great fun to eat. You can probably find it at a nearby Asian or Latin grocery. It might be pricey, but the flavor and the experience are well worth it. Find someone to share it with and enjoy.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-86200471160578180242010-03-07T19:20:00.000-08:002010-03-08T04:59:08.384-08:00Russia in Rockville - Blichniki and Beer<a href="http://www.nostalgiebistro.com/">Bistro Nostalgie</a>, in Kingfarm across Rockville Pike from the Shady Grove Metro stop, is one of a very few <a href="http://www.nostalgiebistro.com/">Russian restaurants in the Metro DC area</a>. The restaurant's food is an interesting mix of proper Russian favorites as well as some other more Mediterranean/Ottoman dishes. The menu acts as a road map of the chef's career - from Russia, through Eastern Europe, to Italy then to us here, in Rockville- without sacrificing the authenticity, quality or traditional value of the food he serves.<br /><br />At 7:30pm on a Thursday all of the restaurant's 15-to-20 tables sat empty as we approached, looking through the big glass windows into the sparse and contemporary dining room. Seeing an empty restaurant is usually a turn off but we were going for the adventure and the flavor...not for the popularity. Those who were there (staff and patrons) were honest-to-goodness Russians, Georgians, Ukrainians, etc. This immediately canceled any remaining trepidation.<br /><br />Our waitress, a Ukrainian, was friendly and attentive. She told us that she was a skilled home cook and that we were in for a treat..."the food here is just like home. Mine is good too!" We ordered beers – maybe Baltika - and some honey pepper vodka which was the Happy Hour Special at $4 a shot down from the normal $9. The beer was nice and hoppy and the vodka was strange, even startlingly so. The first shot was smooth and fragrant with a strong pepper spice. As the night wore on, I found the following shots to be cloying and overly pungent, but by then I was drunk so that opinion may not be as valid as others.<br /><br />The menu had apps ranging from $6 for potatoes fried with mushrooms and onions to $99 for Osetra Caviar on blini or toast points "as you wish." The entrees ranged from $18 to $30 and featured healthy portions and interesting accompaniments.<br /><br />There were three of us and we treated the apps like tapas, starting with those delectable fried potatoes which were silky-soft with wonderfully crisp and caramelized bits which were still sizzling hot with oil. The mushrooms in the dish were a Trumpet-variety and they lent a wonderful earthy flavor to the dish.<br /><br />Veal tongue with mustard and horseradish had exceptionally deep flavor. The texture was soft with almost new resistance to the tooth and after some proper chewing it became like butter - molten, viscous, and sensuous. It was the most complex and challenging flavor of the night...surely not for those who aren't fans of intense meaty flavors.<br /><br />Showing a touch of his experience in the Aegean, the next dish to hit the table was grilled octopus. It tasted exceptionally fresh and was served topped with a lemon herb vinaigrette. The flesh was tender, easily cut with a fork, and the dressing was piquant and bright.<br /><br />Next came the lamb chops. They were grilled to medium-rare perfection and seasoned with salt, pepper and what tasted like a standard spice mix with oregano and thyme as well as other usual suspects. While the meat took center stage, the plethora of pickles that resided on the plate with the meat really made the dish unique and memorable. There was pickled cabbage, beets, and tomatoes; each with its own unique zing. With the pickles there was a tomato, red onion and cucumber salad with cilantro which was refreshing and light. My favorite part of the plate was the little pita bread that was hiding under the grilled lamb. It was soaked in the fat from the meat but still quite crisp and toasty. All together it was one of the best-thought-out plates I've ever had.<br /><br />With the last shot of vodka, we ordered <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blintz">blinchniki, or blintzes</a>, or stuffed crepes, or whatever - they're delicious! We had two varieties of blinchniki at Bistro Nostalgie: meat and mushroom. Both are served with sour cream and both are absolutely splendid. The crepe wrapping was tender and sweet and the fillings were intense in flavor without being offensive.<br /><br />Deserts were a Napoleon Cake which was sweet and tender and a crème brulee, which was a crème brulee.<br /><br />For the three of us - with 4 apps, the lamb entree, 2 deserts, 5 big beers and 12 shots - the bill came to $150, which isn't too terrible considering that we got stuffed to bursting and very, very drunk.<br /><br />While I don't have much experience with <a href="http://www.nostalgiebistro.com/">Russian food in the DC area</a> I do know what tastes good. With that in mind I'm excited to go back to Bistro Nostalgie for more...and I suggest you try it out too!Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-14712222124247895752010-02-19T16:05:00.000-08:002010-02-19T22:02:00.302-08:00We're at Sushi Damo in Rockville and I'm perplexed...then delightedWe sat at the sushi bar at Sushi Damo in Rockville Town Center so that we could get to know the chef. Strangely, we were served by a waitress instead of the guys behind the bar. Sure, for drinks, maybe, but I like to talk to the dude who's cutting my fish. This was confusing...then the food came.<br /><br />The head chef delivered - with a nod that showed he remembered us from a tasting a few months back - the first round of fish, which was delicious and the technique showed great attention to detail in its presentation and the preparation of the rice and the fish. We ate silken, ruby-colored tuna; buttery yellow tail; mild and clean striped bass; smoky, delicate Spanish mackerel; heavy and dull fluke, and terrific fresh water eel...and others. The Mango-something roll (sorry) was great too. It was the best use of fish and fruit I've tried.<br /><br />The second round of food was prepared by a chef who was right in front of us. Perplexingly, he put it at the pick-up where it sat waiting for a waitress - shimmering at us - until Kat pointed it out. When it did hit the bar I was in for a big treat: the best salmon skin handroll I've had in a long, long time. my very favorite - I use it as my benchmark, along with tamago - and theirs was exceptional. The nori was crisp and fragrant. The little bit of fish was cooked just right - juicy with fat - and the skin was an ideal balance between crispness and chew. I can't emphasize this enough. I'm going back just for that.<br /><br />Dessert, which was house made chocolate mousse with black pepper, was the most fun I've had with food since my trip to MiniBar. It was a great combination of diverse flavors, sensations and textures. Extra A+ for the gold leaf.<br /><br />The bill was steep. Edamame for 6 bucks is rediculous...we were silly not to look, but still. Miso soup is too salty and could also stand a pass.<br /><br />Without the booze and the above skip-ables we spent about $60 before tip for 15 peices and a roll.<br /><br />The bottom line is that for flavor, inventive and modern use of technically-excellent traditional preparation, and great quality of fish, Sushi Damo is a safe bet for a <a href="http://www.sushidamo.com/">great sushi in Rockville, MD</a>.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-82335102748206315722009-10-11T12:09:00.001-07:002009-10-11T17:37:41.714-07:00One Thing to Do with Shrimp HeadsThe squeamish ones, those who did not eat the heads from their fried shrimp at dinner on Friday night - stir fried whole shrimp in XO sauce and Thai coconut soup - have done us a favor. They left us with the most flavorful and delicate part of what I believe is an occasionally misunderstood ingredient. I think that shrimp are misunderstood because the rich and tender bodies are only half of the point.<br /><br />Some folks have a hard time eating faces, but if you look around the world - from broiled salmon head and <a href="http://chowhound.chow.com/topics/408090">hamachi kama</a> in Japan, to headcheese in France, to halibut cheek in China, and to whole roast pork in...well... everywhere - you will find many sumptuous and memorable flavors. All well worth the "look your food in the eye" factor.<br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXeyxi3juNIs1wP7zJIunyCouuv1YF46XovC1W0TOBP5GeVRow81ONW8K8YtwSWHpkSMlkMgMg6SA-8zXFhyphenhyphenzMKjkukNtlU6D5XN16jVw_U9MmnBnIPfjrOiZSkbA-0RAXnI5HVVGySA/s1600-h/P1000619.JPG"><img style="margin: 0px auto 10px; display: block; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px; float: right;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVXeyxi3juNIs1wP7zJIunyCouuv1YF46XovC1W0TOBP5GeVRow81ONW8K8YtwSWHpkSMlkMgMg6SA-8zXFhyphenhyphenzMKjkukNtlU6D5XN16jVw_U9MmnBnIPfjrOiZSkbA-0RAXnI5HVVGySA/s320/P1000619.JPG" alt="Asian Shrimp Bisque 2" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391429923466947522" border="0" /></a><br />The "look your food in the eye" factor is the very center of what I call The Diner's Dilemma, which is: How am I to feel about the living creatures that I eat? I still don't really have a comfortable answer for that, so today I like to use the Native American response: Use every part of the animal to the best of your ability and treat the animal (the ingredient) with respect. Also, I enjoy every morsel. Waste not, want not and all.<br /><br />So, with the moral issues out of the way, the shrimp heads sauteed momentarily at the bottom of a stock pot with ginger, scallions, half an onion, coriander seeds, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galangal">galangal</a>, five spice powder, a bay leaf, garlic, two teaspoons of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/XO_sauce">XO sauce</a> and 3 quarts of water. This was gently boiled for 2 hours, adding water every 30 minutes or so when the contents had reduced by half.<br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqMtdVX20WpvIIy6yTgFjBymjKnLQFY0T1KL8kGZ1zxCb_An39gT_oEOoyRJbFWJnfvCkPf9Jf1xNCIcloZUMMjekfDw5iuCuRD1k4OqJFD0zK6A0ah5a6LENqnpBbTQT-fl1w8TB0Rc/s1600-h/P1000622.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: left; cursor: pointer; width: 200px; height: 134px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiqMtdVX20WpvIIy6yTgFjBymjKnLQFY0T1KL8kGZ1zxCb_An39gT_oEOoyRJbFWJnfvCkPf9Jf1xNCIcloZUMMjekfDw5iuCuRD1k4OqJFD0zK6A0ah5a6LENqnpBbTQT-fl1w8TB0Rc/s200/P1000622.JPG" alt="Asian Shrimp Bisque 1" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391473351602919042" border="0" /></a>This boiled down to about 1 quart of lightly flavored broth which was strained through a <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chinoise">chiniose</a>. After straining the solid remnants were pressed to force the remaining liquid back into the pot with the rest of the broth. To this was added about 2 cups of half-and-half. It should have been heavy cream, but healthier aspirations won out. This reduced by one quarter then finished with two tablespoons of butter and was set aside for a few moments before service.<br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmUPnHu1gxWP8rL7aGHHW36QkGvY8VoaooAGlXdW3QSofnXfcr19Vpfr3MkL-r9c3Vs7nQovV-wfwzSN3rKaF-uVFWQf4S50_IiABWFobmkMenPD0dYiqi-_rKRjLMzxuAx4M6k21UBY/s1600-h/P1000629.JPG"><img style="margin: 0pt 0pt 10px 10px; float: right; cursor: pointer; width: 320px; height: 214px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkmUPnHu1gxWP8rL7aGHHW36QkGvY8VoaooAGlXdW3QSofnXfcr19Vpfr3MkL-r9c3Vs7nQovV-wfwzSN3rKaF-uVFWQf4S50_IiABWFobmkMenPD0dYiqi-_rKRjLMzxuAx4M6k21UBY/s320/P1000629.JPG" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5391486247691363714" border="0" /></a>Pan-fried chicken dumplings went into a wide, shallow bowl followed by the soup and a garnish of sliced scallion.<br /><br />The soup was light and flavorful. The shrimp heads definitely polished an unique facet in the flavor and the herbs and spices were pretty well balanced, being warm and savory and not too bright. A roux and some heavy cream would have made it a solid wintertime soup but it was nice for a warmish fall afternoon. Next time it will get sauteed shrimp for some variety in the texture.<br /><br />Total cook time was 2.5 hours. Total work time was 25 minutes.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-798890532679016592009-08-20T18:48:00.000-07:002009-08-20T19:44:58.683-07:00On Drinking Wine and Good BeerA lot about wine and good beer is tradition and vintage and process and knowledge and expensive.<br /><br />Much, much more about it is flavor and alcohol and, actually, pretty cheap.<br /><br />All I really have to say about wine and good beer, other than what I like or don't like on an evening-to-evening basis, is that if you drink it from a glass, sip it in quantities big enough to paint your entire palate with its flavor. Don't go just gulping it down and wasting the gentle notes. Don't just imbibe so gently that you don't get to know the thick end of it either.<br /><br />Wine and good beer are delicious and nuanced things. Try drinking it in varying sizes of sip and see what new flavors pop out. There are layers and layers of different flavors in every bottle.<br /><br />Buy one bottle cheap. If you like it, go back for more because sometimes there's a limited supply of the great cheap stuff.<br /><br />Also, if you're going to drink wine or good beer straight from the bottle, chug it. And, don't share.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-68401020793202636662009-08-18T16:35:00.000-07:002009-08-18T20:44:00.648-07:00Dinner Tonight - 8.18.09I got home from work this evening and found the <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pleurotus_eryngii">king oyster</a>, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Agaricus_bisporus"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_0">cremini</span></a> and <a href="http://www.hokto-kinoko.co.jp/en/products.html#bunapi"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_1">bunapi</span> mushrooms</a> in the fridge along with baby eggplant and baby broccoli. We're eating lots of babies here at The Lang House. In the freezer were 6 frozen shrimp (15-21s). The pantry had <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Quinoa"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_2">quinoa</span></a> - the sole grain component of the evening and a whole one at that.<br /><br />With this we made four dishes:<br /><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_3">Quinoa</span> Pilaf with Caramelized Onions, Garlic and <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_4">Bunapi</span> Mushrooms.</span><br /><br /><table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/xEBWZvXUTYS9voNG0Lx3Xw?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgaa7jJpL-jVErN7R3mn4uViBvIY-Hv65oFLJ3RWf0jQxYLL4OTC_J17oiP4abZcu3JdlsJgG1eZU9YrqXK4xgmQkpaAujdmwPoEJPaxTAjrJXuJQRuq2riFCoXP97bL-erkwy6WD_iVT8/s400/Quinoa%20with%20Bunapi%20Mushrooms.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/max.b.lang/Dinner81809?feat=embedwebsite">Dinner 8-18-09</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Starting in a 12 inch non-stick pan with olive oil over moderate-to-high heat and after sauteing minced garlic we added the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_5">bunapi</span> mushrooms; cooking them until golden and soft-but-chewy. Then the left over caramelized onions from Spanish tortillas that we had over the weekend went in with some of the oil they cooked in. Last the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_6">quinoa</span> is tossed in and the heat is turned way up. We salted and tossed the pan then fluffed the <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_7">quinoa</span> on top and let the bottom fry to a golden crisp. It was then tossed again and served.<br /><br /><br /><b>Just <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_8">Cremini</span> Mushrooms</b><br /><br /><table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/AsNtDc_gTxTg3oylMtYudQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgtLsCiTtyODQWB4X4A93HocHDB48NbnjUyLtsXQaafmrIZInM60w5YDBA1_74xArlGp88tOqlW5F2RDABy5erqL0vx6OFnkrVQgtFDGZAmpircaNyyJ_3WlzF_laSwSNcKyVfX4t45BAo/s400/Sauteed%20Cremini%20Mushrooms.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/max.b.lang/Dinner81809?feat=embedwebsite">Dinner 8-18-09</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br />Simply, these were made very hot on all sides, saute-style, in a tablespoon of olive oil over moderate-to-high heat. You don't need to, but if you like you can salt them to taste <i>after</i> cooking them to a golden brown. Served cold tonight, they would be great hot too. Maybe with sage butter for fat nights.<br /><br /><br /><b>Slow Stir Fry of Baby Eggplant with Sliced King Oyster Mushrooms and Shrimp</b><br /><br /><table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/3osc4YO0tmpdP5o4nXUraQ?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh0FcuCojCU7976vAknMPYC8pYY-E7pOfVDB-bwOGjE7aWUEwqgvSVwDrCsPdTyLAB0YgBGZ1rrlvscV7vydDN1zPqIGQqvFB22ZY29mxHl9YvjQWDLwxVohPEi4iXkzPnSQZjPuNbOcso/s400/Miso%20Eggplant%20with%20Sliced%20King%20Oyster%20Mushroom%20and%20Shrimp.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/max.b.lang/Dinner81809?feat=embedwebsite">Dinner 8-18-09</a></td></tr></tbody></table><br /><br /><br />Eggplants were trimmed and sliced in half. Then, opposite of the cut side, a thick strip was peeled. They were salted and let to drip for 20 minutes, rinsed and then firmly dried. We laid them in a medium-hot, non-stick pan with a bit of olive oil and let them saute for 6 minutes. After that they were flipped and let to cook for 3 more minutes. The cut side, now facing up, was painted with a light paste made of light <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_9">miso</span>, soy sauce, a little bit of <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_10">albariño</span> wine and a dash of water to loosen it up. Once the eggplant cooked they were set aside.<br /><br />Next the sliced king oyster mushrooms were sauteed in a dash of soy sauce and a teaspoon of raw sugar until soft and chewy and then set on top of the eggplant in a bowl. The shrimp were sliced into three pieces and marinated in the same paste as the eggplant. The eggplant and mushrooms were tossed together into a 12 inch non-stick pan to heat through and the shrimp were tossed in to the pan to cook for 60 seconds. It was served hot.<br /><br />The <b>baby broccoli</b> was par steamed and then finished in salt, pepper, olive oil and minced garlic and finished with <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shaoxing_wine"><span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_11">Shaoxing</span> cooking wine</a>. It was the last hot dish and got eaten too quickly for a picture.<br /><br /><b>Bottom line?</b> Too many mushrooms! Those dishes were solid on their own - even worth repeating - but not all at once. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_12">quinoa</span> pilaf with a grilled steak. The <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_13">miso</span> eggplant with white rice. And, the broccoli with anything. Also, three out of four dishes were brown in color - not too much tonal variety there.<br /><br />All of it went nicely with a 2007 <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_14">Albariño</span> by Martin <span class="blsp-spelling-error" id="SPELLING_ERROR_15">Codax</span> ($13.99).<br /><br /><table style="width: auto;"><tbody><tr><td><a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/C0WQFNYxba1GrYYSTFVC0Q?feat=embedwebsite"><img src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgYxWikDxYVmpl7iOwn9lmRko9S7HQ-cThdgtuB1IJf5Kw4SKiq2j7YY7irrpGHEf5V_fFlxuVi2vAMw0gR50uuTExHOQ5AJy3ANu_Ke-RQAXZD90_zZ7NI1hOf10q9Qie7xo6_SM2p3E4/s400/Martin%20Codax,%20Albari%C3%B1o%20-%202007.JPG" /></a></td></tr><tr><td style="font-family: arial,sans-serif; font-size: 11px; text-align: right;">From <a href="http://picasaweb.google.com/max.b.lang/Dinner81809?feat=embedwebsite">Dinner 8-18-09</a></td></tr></tbody></table>Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-25806840650580632272009-06-19T13:37:00.000-07:002009-06-19T15:26:27.662-07:00Front Runner for Best Build a Burger ProgramSummer is here in DC, and I (having recently moved back home from LA) am working on reacquainting myself with the best burgers in town.<br /><br />Without that goal in mind, I met a cousin in Cleveland Park for some beer and a chat. We settled on <a href="http://www.cpbargrill.com/">Cleveland Park Bar and Grill</a> if only for the fact that they sell Yuengling on the cheap.<br /><br />Hidden deep within their <a href="http://www.cpbargrill.com/Menu/Sandwiches--More/index.html">Sandwiches and More section</a> resides one very well prepared CP Burger. Now that, in and of itself is not unique.<br /><br /><b>What <i>is</i> unique</b> is the little italicized copy after the standard "Add American, cheddar, Swiss, provolone, bacon or grilled onions $1 each" that reads "or add any pizza topping."*<br /><br />Their list of toppings can be found below, but let me make this clear: The sheer quantity of flavor permutations are extraordinary. Meats like speck, prosciutto, and salami are of great quality. Cheeses like asiago, Swiss, goat and others are perfect for pairing. Other toppings - capers, sun dried tomatoes, eggplant - are fresh and serve as excellent sources for creative texture and flavor combinations.<br /><br />My selection was prepared medium-rare with capicollo and gorgonzola. It was juicy and splendid. The fries were solid - nothing spectacular - but as the standard accompaniment they served adequately.<br /><br />The burger alone will bring me back, but if you need more coaxing hit the bullets below.<br /><br /><b>WRAP UP</b><br /><li>Outstanding build a burger program</li><li>Good beer selection with 12 beers on tap, 22 in the bottle</li><li>Smart, friendly, attentive and spot-on service</li><li>Small deck area - try to catch it early</li><li>Tons of TVs loaded with sports programming</li><br /><br /><b>FIND THEM AT:</b><br />421 Connecticut Avenue NW<br>Washington, DC 20008<br>Phone: (202) 806-8940<br><br /><br />*Toppings include, but are not limited to:<br /><br />Fresh mozzarella, ricotta, arugula, onions, mushrooms, capers, broccoli, spinach, eggplant, sun dried tomatoes, green Sicilian olives, black Gaeta olives, egg, anchovie $1/ea<br /> <br />Pancetta, salami, capicollo, grilled chicken, Gorgonzola, mascarpone, Asiago, Parmigiano Reggiano, goat cheese, roasted red and green peppers, sliced tomatoes, artichokes $2/ea<br /> <br />Italian ham, Parma prosciutto, speck, Coppa, mortadella, Italian sausage, smoked salmon $3/eaMaxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-16839274141853671832009-06-19T07:03:00.000-07:002009-06-19T07:04:08.538-07:00DC Live!Stomach Brain is back in Washington, DC.<br /><br />Hungry too!<br /><br />More to come shortly...Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-56239316372327398662008-11-14T07:05:00.000-08:002008-11-14T09:16:08.203-08:00Palate Food and Wine in GlendaleIt's easy to drive past <a href="http://www.palatefoodwine.com/" target="_blank">Palate</a> because the restaurant is neatly packed into a building that must be the only non-auto dealership on Brand Blvd. in Glendale. What made the place findable was the valet line, which was 5 cars deep when we arrived at 7:30. (Street parking was readily available though…welcome to LA…I guess.)<br /><br />Inside the restaurant you are treated to a fancy, modern mix of black and purple. The bar is silver and tall - snaking from a doorway leading to the back rooms to the entrance where we stood. Manning the bar was Antoine, an amicable Frenchman who's been in LA for 9 years and has cultivated a first-rate knowledge of all things alcohol (he makes a stellar Drambuie and soda too). The bar was full from waist to ceiling with bottles of wine and there were two small wine refrigerators with vacuum re-corking systems - ensuring that ordering wine by the glass is always a full-bodied experience.<br /><br />To the left of the bar you find a dining room that seats upwards of 100 people, bordering that is a teeny-tiny exhibition kitchen. We said hello to <a href="http://www.palatefoodwine.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=71&Itemid=57&b973087baa227a6e333ace3a1d3d4572=410245a89f7faa3958397d21bc52f058" target="_blank">Octavio</a> - the Chef/Owner who was expediting at the pass - and watched as cooks bumped and jockeyed for position on the line or at the stove. Immediately noticeable in that little dungeon of flavor were truffles, an immersion circulator and...well...I don't know. In such a small space it was easy for 4 cooks to completely obscure the view.<br /><br />Walking through the doorway at the far end of the bar, you find another dining area of equal size, the cheese cave, charcuterie, and their wine and cheese retail area. It looked very well stocked...but I was more interested in dining-in than carry-out.<br /><br />The <a href="http://www.palatefoodwine.com/images/palate/menus/palate_dinner_menu.pdf" target="_blank">meal</a> started with the "Porkfolio" - Ha! - A platter with two pieces each of speck, prosciutto, salami, salami cotto, pepperoni and a couple others whose names I am unable to recollect. Rest assured that they were all delicious, especially in combination with any of the three varieties of mustard that served as an accompaniment. One mustard was a standout. It could be described as a mustard/Worcestershire sauce mixture and I couldn't identify it - nor could Josh, another glutton whose birthday was the cause for this particular celebration. (If happen you know what this concoction is please tell me 'cause I haven't a clue.)<br /><br />Other appetizers included Potted Duck - confited and shredded, mixed with its own fat and served in a little white jar. The flavor simple and the texture was stunning - the flesh had a subtle chew like ultra-tender jerky and the unctuousness of the fat provided just the right viscosity and mouthfeel - perfect chewing conditions!! When I die, I would like to be packed in the stuff, mummy-style. An interesting counterpoint to the savory potted duck were pickled sweet onions, one of four pickled veggies on the menu that night. The onions delivered an excellent flash of freshness and vinegared tang, making them ideal for shaking your taste buds out of their duck induced hypnosis.<br /><br />As we moved on to entrees I felt that the portions were little (all small-appetizer size excepting the pork belly, konpachi, and steak), but no less flavorful than the preceding dishes. None of my dining companions seemed to mind so I let the argument go, though I think that the number of entrée dishes we ordered will indicate that I was of the correct opinion.<br />Our entrees, all shared, included:<br /><ul><li>Baby Cuttlefish with beans and stewed peppers. Flash sautéed and soft-as-could-be, the meat had a light ocean flavor that matched well with the earthy beaniness of the sauce…so well, in fact, that I was forced (FORCED!) to lift the plate off the table and pour the unforkable portion directly into my face.</li><br /><li>Fresh Ricotta Gnocchi with Oxtail - Soft and succulent! Two or three sauces combined to make for an astonishing flavor combination.</li><br /><li>Fried Veal Sweetbreads – Easily as good as those served at the much more expensive Craft, these sweetbreads were prepared perfectly and the sweet demi-glace sauce was a perfect compliment. Josh went so far as to thank God for the baby cow that lent his supple neck glands to this fabulous dish.</li><br /><li>Wagu Rib Eye – This one knocked my socks off! Perfectly cooked to medium rare and sliced appropriately, the steak was served with a small portion of rich, creamy scalloped potatoes and two leaves of romaine lettuce. I hadn’t tried the combination of lettuce and steak like that ever before and, please, let me tell you, it was revelatory. The fresh greenness of the lettuce was a perfect foil to the deep and savory flavor of the beef. It is certainly something I will try to attempt to replicate at home…with little success I imagine.</li><br /><li>Konpachi – Yellowtail, delicately cooked in butter, the fish was soft and sweet while a quick sear to doneness added a delightfully crisp aspect. The vegetables accompanying it were snappish and fresh. My dining companions found this to be one of their favorites.</li><br /><li>Trotters – It was my first time eating pig’s feet. They were more gelatinous than I expect, but no less delicious! They were stuffed with chestnuts and cooked with just a bit of caramelized crispness. I encourage everyone to give trotters a try…especially if you have the distinct pleasure of eating them here.</li><br /><li>Pork Belly – This generous portion of stunningly supple pork had an ideal ratio of fat to flesh. The fatty portion was so soft it could be spread on toast, and the full-bodied pork flavor rang out loud and clear. So loud and so clear in fact, that I have zero recollection of anything else that was on the plate with it.</li></ul>Desert was the one confusing part of the meal. What was described to us as a Persimmon Pudding had the flavor and texture of a carrot or pumpkin cake – nuts and all. It was delicious, but none of us could find any sign of persimmons. Oh well.<br /><br />All in all, it was an extraordinary experience. The technique was truly skillful, which was to be expected, considering that the aforementioned Octavio co-founded the inimitable <a href="http://www.patinagroup.com/" target="_blank">Patina Group</a>. Each ingredient was fresh and treated with the utmost respect – preserving and amplifying the natural flavors.<br /><br />The 4 of us ate for $164.55 before tip and we all believed that it was a bargain. Though portions were small, the bold flavors, exciting, inspiring textures, and a thoughtful, creative, wide-ranging menu provided more than enough sustenance to keep us running, ranting and raving.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.palatefoodwine.com/" target="_blank">Do try Palate Food and Wine in Glendale.</a>Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-12884713598656649412008-11-08T20:40:00.000-08:002008-11-08T21:16:19.582-08:00Hot Wings Cafe - Melrose and La BreaI love me a hot wing! It is one of the foods that i think about for days before engaging in it's consumption. If you too get a hankerin' for Buffalo's favorite finger food check out <a href="http://hotwingscafe.net/Hot_Wings_on_Melrose.html">Hot Wings Cafe on Melrose, just east of La Brea</a>. The price is fair and the wings are prepared perfectly.<br /><br />Their wings are un-breaded, which is how i prefer them. They are fried crisp and tossed in your choice of sauce; hot, super hot, BBQ, etc. Their "mild" version was garlicky and delicious. The hot variety are nothing to sweat over, but I imagine that their spicier varieties get very hot, very fast.<br /><br />I checked this place out on a Friday with a few friends from work. We engaged in a wing eating contest during lunch and, I'm proud to say, took home the crown with 29.5 wings...yes, i count "halfsies." There was some conjecture regarding the rules of the contest, the time frame and the true meaning of an "eaten wing." To me, if there is anything left on the bone, you are doing it wrong.<br /><br />I have a special wing eating technique, taught to me by my mother. It works only on the "wing" not the drumette - which is fine, because the drumette is - to me - the inferior chicken part. here's how the technique works: You take the wing with two hands, thumb and forefinger grasping the top end of each bone. Tear the two bones apart and choose whichever of the two peices excites you more. Dip it in the sauce of your choice - bleu cheese, ranch, vinagar, or dry if you please. Then, grasping one end of the half-wing, put the whole deal in your mouth and use your front teeth to cleave flesh from bone. Repeat with the other half, and smile...with your mouth full...of course.<br /><br />When done correctly, you will remove all edible parts in one fell swoop. It creeps out a lot of people because you'll be eating the crispy cartilage and occasionally some bone too. To me, if it comes off the bone...it's for eating. If it stays on the bone, its for making stock.<br /><br />It's been two days since gorging at Hot Wings Cafe, and I'm already excited to go back.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-12062165431269951842008-09-10T19:58:00.000-07:002008-11-11T19:40:32.314-08:00José Andrés: My most favorite coming to LA!In Washington, DC there are five restaurants that have one special thing in common: <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Jos%C3%A9_Andr%C3%A9s">José Andrés</a>. He is above all a Chef, though he is also a cookbook author, TV host, victorious Iron Chef America contestant, and one of the premier culinary innovators of our time.<br /><br />His west coast outpost will be on La Cienega in the new SLS hotel. The very moment it opens I will be certain report back, but for the time being, i know only that there will be as many as 5 different dining experiences in the one restaurant: A molecular Gastronomy thing, a tapas/dim sum thing, a fine dining experience and two other joints that are sure to drown you in "mouth-water."<br /><br />He has 5 restaurants in the DC area:<br /><ul><li><a href="http://www.cafeatlantico.com/">Cafe Atlantico</a>: Nuevo Latino inspired and exciting as can be. Standard portions are available during the week, but the best time to go is between 11:00am and 1:00pm on Saturday or Sunday. That's when you can order Tapas-style: Thirty or fourty little dishes...3 or 4 thrilling bites.</li><li><a href="http://www.jaleo.com/">Jaleo</a>: Find it in Downtown DC, Bethesda, MD or Arlington, VA. Solid Spanish Tapas. Lots of seasonal ingredients, the preparation of which is always fantastic. Excellent deserts too - great textures and<span style="font-style: italic;"> temperatures</span>.<br /></li><li><a href="http://www.zaytinya.com/">Zaytinya</a>: Serves mezze, the small plates of the Mediteranean (Greece, Turkey and Lebanon) in an astonishing environment. Glass vases of all sizes sit full of olive oil (Zaytinya means olive oil in Turkish), lemons and nothing. Tall celings and unique bathrooms...yeah. The food is another study in textures. Excellent preparation and lots of fun to eat. If they have grilled or fried whole fish, be certain to eat it.<br /></li><li><a href="http://cafeatlantico.com/miniBar/miniBar.htm">minibar </a>by josé andrés: This is where the Chef Andrés' signature cuisine in a small space. $120, 30-35 small courses, six diners, three chefs, two seatings a night.</li><li><a href="http://www.oyamel.com/">Oyamel</a>: I haven't been. Wikipedia says "authentic Mexican tacos and antojitos, margaritas with salt air. Reopened in Penn Quarter in February 2007. Originally located in the Crystal City neighborhood of Arlington, VA." What did you think?<br /></li></ul><br />I'm just so pleased that José is coming to cook in LA! Get your gullet ready, cause it's gonna be a show!Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-80568636906540436202008-06-03T19:32:00.000-07:002008-06-03T20:00:02.006-07:00The Perfect BiteWhen I talk to people about restaurants or about food in general, I frequently refer to "perfect bites."<br /><br />To me, a perfect bite is one that combines all of the flavors on your plate. Protein, vegetable, sauce and, sometimes, garnish. Perfect bites sometimes need to be bigger than what is considered reasonable for public places. It doesn't bother me though.<br /><br />The flavor, if you're eating someplace that's worth its salt, should be exactly what the Chef had planned. Part of that is the presentation - how things are laid out on the plate. Part is how you attack it; which bites you take and how you choose them. It's a combination of all of the individual flavor profiles that he's put in front of you and I lose my mind when they all line up.<br /><br />What's your perfect bite?Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-5479124896137701512008-06-03T10:07:00.000-07:002008-11-14T09:17:27.653-08:00Haru Ulala - Izakaya<a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5912851320541198095&postID=547912489613770151#ulalacap">Click Here for a Quick Recap</a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.haruulala.com/">Haru Ulala</a>, at the east end of Little Tokyo on 2<sup>nd</sup> street, serves what the Japanese call <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Izakaya">Izakaya</a>. Prices are moderate (about $30 per person for lots of food and plenty of beer) and the staff is very friendly. It is very authentic, and perhaps because of that, the service staff speak primarily Japanese. It can be tough to get a special request across, but if you make your self clear you've got nothing to worry about. I made a point of telling Shim, the grill cook (and very friendly, smiley man), that I wanted to eat <em>exactly</em> what he would have wanted to eat. He replied with a big smile and delivered unto us an exciting, challenging, strange and all-together delicious experience.<br /><br />The beauty of Izakaya (to me) is that the food, all small plates consisting of between 2 and 10 bites a piece, works in tandem with your choice alcohol to create an experience that pleases the entire palate. The experience is similar to <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tapas">Tapas</a>, the Spanish style of serving small plates that were originally meant to fit over the top of your glass to protect your booze.<br /><br />It's interesting to compare bar culture in different parts of the world, and to put Izakaya in the same realm as Tapas is an appropriate designation. Both of these dining experiences are best shared with friends. With that in mind, I visited Haru Ulala with Reino, a friend who, with his wife, moved to Los Angeles a few years before Kat and I. Reino eats <em>most</em> things, but he set out a clear line of demarcation regarding things that he WOULD NOT EAT. That meant no Crispy Squid Lips for Max. (By the way, I believe squid have beaks, not lips. If someone can show me where the lips are, I'd appreciate it.)<br /><br />Because the flavors of Izakaya - which frequently consists of fried, grilled or pickled dishes - it pares well with sake and beer. Tom and I got a pitcher of <a href="http://www.kirin.com/beers.htm">Kirin Ichiban</a> Draught (for a very reasonable $12) and found that its light, crisp qualities worked as an excellent palate cleanser and a very refreshing compliment to the food. We did not order sake, but I did spy a bottle of one of my very favorites - Wakatake's Onikoroshi (Demon Slayer). Without tasting it with the food, it's best to leave that out for today. It is safe to say though, that Haru Ulala's sake selection may be limited, but it is also of high quality.<br /><br />It's going to be easiest for me to list the dishes that we ate in order, because there are no proper "courses," just a sporadic flavor flow. Dishes showed up in the order that they were completed. First there was...<br /><br />Fried Smelt with Vinegar: I liked this a whole bunch served cold. When we ordered it, I thought it would be hot. My guess is that the "vinegar" was a mix of rice wine vinegar and mirin; definitely zesty, tangy and with a bit of citrus from a lemon wedge, made for a nice round flavor - which did a great job of covering what could have been an overwhelmingly "fishy" experience. The texture was sort of mealy near the belly and nice and chewy and firm along the back, and in the tail and head. I don't think that I would have enjoyed it as much without the thinly sliced white onions that were part of the pickling mixture. They lent a cool, crispy texture with that familiar, sharp flavor which evened out the dish nicely.<br /><br />Deep Fried Garlic: Top trimmed off, chucked in the fryer, and God-damned delicious. Sharper and firmer than when roasted, the flavor mixed well with just about all of the other dishes. Not much more to say about it. I like garlic, and this stuff was just that.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.kitazawaseed.com/seed_083-103.html">Shishito Peppers</a>: Mush less greasy than I'm use to - but that's a welcome change. They were crispy and loaded with a flavor that was similar to an extra-piquant bell pepper. The bonito flakes on top added some nice ocean flavor, but I preferred the the peppers *lightly* dipped in soy for a bit more salt.<br /><br />Beef Tongue: I was expecting to see this on the menu and looking forward to trying it. The flavor was INTENSE beefiness. I can relate it to the flavor of the last 5 steaks that I've eaten, all combined into one instant. I loved it. LOVED IT. We ordered it again, this time medium rare (after re-convincing Shim, that we were eager to eat Izakaya using exactly the same preparation as he would enjoy) and it was a far better rendition than the one that they serve to "American customers." Less chewy and far more succulent, the fat and muscle worked in great harmony and with a very pleasant (and not at all overwhelming) oiliness.<br /><br />Grilled Shitake Mushrooms: It's easy to underestimate mushrooms. They can be bland and boring, or in some cases their flavor can be completely obfuscated by the rest of a recipe. This was not at all the case at Haru Ulala. The mushroom caps were large, maybe 3.5 inches in diameter. They were prepared simply, spending a few minutes over the coals without any sauce or other preparatory steps. Their texture was similar to raw halibut - chewy, but delicate. The flavor was surprisingly potent. Earthy and sweet, the natural flavor of the mushroom was amplified by the simple yet expert preparation. When you eat these, please focus on breathing out of your nose. There are myriad flavors hidden in mushrooms that only become apparent when sensed through <em>the schnoz</em>.<br /><br />Squid in Butter with Enoki Mushrooms: Squid is a funny thing. In many ways it is a unique ingredient with a unique flavor. At the same time, it has the tendency to take on the flavors imparted to it by other ingredients. This was the case with this dish. The butter was thick, not unappetizingly so, but the smooth texture and flavor rang out loud and clear. The enoki mushrooms had a pleasant crunch and a light but hearty flavor. The taste of the squid was pleasant, but it's texture was the real high point of the plate. Soft and tender, the squid (when taken as a "<a href="http://stomachbrain.blogspot.com/2008/06/perfect-bite.html">perfect bite</a>" with the mushrooms) was very much like a scallop, but with a slightly firmer chew. There was a variant of this dish that came with scallops instead of squid - I'll be sure to try it next time and report back.<br /><br />Grilled Asparagus: You know what? There isn't much to report here. Grilled to perfection, the asparagus were fresh and flavorful. The sauce they were served with was a Japanese mayonnaise. It was an excellent compliment to the familiar flavor of my favorite green sticks.<br /><br />Nasu No Miso Dengaku (Eggplant with Miso): This is an excellent example of a mind shattering plate. It's not that the eggplant or miso were truly unique flavors - it's that the way the food played around in my mouth that truly delivered. It can only be compared to a Chery Cordial - the chocolate bonbons filled with a cherry in syrup. A thin Japanese-style eggplant was cooked with a thick glaze of miso and cut down the middle and then into 6 bite-sized pieces, presented (and I think cooked) skin side down. The first bite (taken skin side down) was immediately soft and sweet - like custard - with a crunch in the skin and an intense miso flavor which stopped just short of overwhelming the eggplant. Both flavors were apparent and worked seamlessly together. The second bite was taken skin-up and was less balanced. The miso was the primary flavor, but the texture of the skin of the eggplant provided a great squish and crunch that made my teeth happy.<br /><br />Braised Black Pork (Pork Belly): Originally, I didn't know what gave this dish it's name and I felt silly for not asking. An anonymous commenter let me know that a specific type of Japanese-bred pig called "Kurobuta," (which is Japanese for Black Pig) gives this dish it's name. Regardless of the dish's name or origin, it is very clear that this belly sat in a good, hot liquid for a long, long time. The meat was sweet and the fat was soft to the point where it's texture was almost that of butter with a slight jelly-like feel. I don't know what made up the broth that this cooked in and it's driving me nuts. My best guess is that it was part citrus - maybe orange juice - part soy sauce, and part magic. The flavors reminded me of a chicken dish that my mother use to make, but with a much more subtle tang. The meat was very soft, easily pulled apart with chopsticks, and had a terrific mouth-feel. I haven't had too much experience with pork belly, so my opinion may not be one based on repetition - but I do know what tastes good (to me).<br /><br />Short Ribs: Very, very tasty. Similar in flavor to typical (and delicious) carry-out-style Chinese ribs, though far smaller (and in some cases boneless). Great mouth feel thanks in part to a light, yet somehow unctuous glaze. They were almost jerky-like, but not nearly as tough. If I was going to be put to death-by-food, these short ribs would be a nice piece of meat to go out on.<br /><br />Reino and I ate for $64.00, plus tip. It was worth every penny we paid.<br /><br /><a name="ulalacap">Quick recap:</a><br /><ul><li>An authentic experience to be sure!</li><li>Beverages are key, beer is pretty cheap and sake selection is limited, but of high quality</li><li>Friendly staff, but a language barrier can get in the way.</li><li>Lots of flavors - wide variety.</li><li>Texture is king here. Explore and enjoy.</li></ul><br />Top Dishes:<br /><ul><li>Pork Belly</li><li>Short Ribs</li><li>Nasu No Miso Dengaku (Eggplant w/ Miso)</li><li>Grilled Shitake Mushroom</li></ul><p>Recommendation: Run, do not walk, to Haru Ulala. It's a simple, inexpensive exploration of Japanese-style pub food. Try to challenge yourself with a few strange sounding specials and be surprised by how much you like them! Bring friends so you can try as many dishes as possible and be friendly to the employees, there can be a language barrier here, and nice guys always eat best.</p><p><br /></p>Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5912851320541198095.post-13491837443633532842008-05-30T22:02:00.000-07:002008-11-14T09:18:13.310-08:00craft - Less is Far, Far More<a href="http://www.blogger.com/post-edit.g?blogID=5912851320541198095&postID=1349183744363353284#recap">Click Here for a Quick Recap</a> <p>My Momma's in town. Momma likes to eat well, with a sharp eye on quality, technique and value. In that regard, <a href="http://www.craftrestaurant.com/craft_losangeles_style.html" target="blank">craft</a>, opened and operated by <span style="font-style: italic;">Top Chef</span> host, and top Chef himself, <a href="http://www.iceculinary.com/news/article_28.shtml" target="blank">Tom Colicchio</a>, provided us with an astonishing experience. The man running the kitchen is chef de Cuisine, Matthew Accarrino and the food was brilliant. The restaurant is in a beautiful, low, modern (in a Thomas-Edison-meets-Frank-Lloyd-Wright kind of way) building just in front of the new offices of Creative Artists Agency in Century City.<br /><br />The skill of the folks in the kitchen made it seem like the food was exceptionally simple and the menu was a shining example of how the local-food movement can be a near-perfect thing. Dictated by what's at the farmers market that morning, the ingredients are the same quality as those that you'd find at <a href="http://www.campanilerestaurant.com/" target="blank">Campanille</a>, <a href="http://www.providencela.com/" target="blank">Providence</a>, <a href="http://www.fathersoffice.com/" target="blank">Father's Office</a> or any other place that gives a damn about their guests (or their reputation). To be clear, everything on our table appeared to have been caught, plucked, dug up, harvested, butchered or in any other way gathered within the last 72 hours. The bread was also delicious. The rich and savory butter came with a few specs of sea salt, and would have made my socks a 3 star experience.<br /><br />We decided to explore the <a href="http://www.craftrestaurant.com/craft_LA_dinner_menu.html" target="blank">menu</a>, ordering 4 appetizers to begin with. First came an <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Amuse_bouche" target="blank">amuse bouche</a> of calamari on a coconut gelee (fancy, molecular-gastronomical jello) in the bottom of a shallow, heavy spoon with a long curving handle that nearly met it's business end after wrapping around your index and middle fingers - like a super-shallow mug. The textures were a surprise. The squid looked to have been poached, or lightly sauteed then cooled. The gelee was firm at first but melted very quickly, nearly turning the squid into a flavor-vehicle, with only the faintest hint of its own oceanic flavor.<br /><br />Our appetizers arrived all at once. The wild arugula salad was bright and peppery, topped with ultra-thin slices of lemon and a powder-fine coating of salty, hard cheese. It was dressed perfectly. Then quail with wild huckleberries. Cooked to perfection, the bird was soft and succulent with an intense, round flavor that tasted half-sweet-half-veal-demi-glace. It was the very picture of <span style="font-style: italic;">savory</span>. The portion was on the small side at half a bird (the dark half!), but worthwhile, especially considering the flavor-wallop that it delivered. This was the first dish to truly amaze with its apparent simplicity. The flavor was ideal - an outstanding balance of salt, fat, acid and the spot-on preparation of what can be a very challenging meat.<br /><br />Peruvian octopus with Greek yogurt was, for me, OK. But it sent Mom off the wall. Kat liked it too, until I ruined the dish by pointing out that its rich, salty flavor may have been due to something ominously similar to pork. Mom and Kat do not eat meats like beef or pork. Mom is allergic and it makes Kat's morals hurt. Bravely, they stowed their objections, physical or otherwise, and ate everything that hit the table.<br /><br />Cobia tartar with cornichons was the one real miss of the evening. I was mistaken in thinking that Cobia was a generally mild fish - especially as it was prepared here, seemingly aspic'd in cornichon-flavored gelatin. Its taste was too sharp in contrast to the mellow, soft flavors that the other apps delivered. On a Sunday morning, in a light salad with a hearty bloody mary it might have been delicious...just not last night. We actually asked David (our omnipresent waiter) to take it back. He asked what we thought of it and I told him what I told you. The dish was whisked away and pleasantly banished from the bill.<br /><br />Then, like Julia Child reaching down from god's kitchen and massaging your whole face with her warm, calloused, wrinkly hands - the sweetbreads and kumquat arrived. A good sweetbread (the thalamus gland of veal) should be crispy on the outside, almost like a chicken nugget, with just enough chew on the inside - like scallops. These were very much that. The flavor of this dish was epic in its scope. From the meaty glands and the piquant citrus of the kumquat to the robust sauce made with some great stock and caramelized onions (and other good stuff) the experience was revelatory - and absolutely delicious. If you get there, try it. TRY IT.<br /><br />We blindsided David by asking him to choose his favorites for our entree. He sent us two proteins (both fish, he told us, as we ordered wine - Chardonnay for Mom, <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Albari%C3%B1o" target="blank">Albariño</a> for me) and three veggies. David made great choices - every single one.<br /><br />Scallops in butter with thyme were the best I've ever had. Kat fell in love-at-first-bite with the skate wing and currants. But the real highlight, surprisingly enough, were the vegetables. The braised spring bulb onions were mild, but still crispy, an absolutely addictive texture. The roasted flowering zucchini also had a near crunchy texture, but relented after a chew or two, into a succulent goo that tasted like someone had wrung out the whole garden. Maybe the best dish was the assorted mushrooms. Hen of the woods, trompette royalle, and baby shitake mushrooms were all roasted to a firm, chewy perfection, still clinging to the flavor profile of the dirt from whence they were so lovingly (and recently) picked.<br /><br /><a href="http://www.craftrestaurant.com/craft_LA_dessert_menu.html" target="blank">Dessert</a> began with one more amuse bouche - apricot sorbet over panna cotta with another tropical gelee. Kat put it just right when she said that it was like a "Creamsicle for grown-ups." She and Mom shared a chocolate souffle with coconut sorbet which was so intensely flavorful that one bite nearly ended my meal...nearly. My desert was fresh glazed donuts with tangerine marmalade, chocolate pudding and (my favorite) vanilla custard. The donuts came with their tiny, fried holes which I eagerly shared with the ladies. It was just right. Crispy and sweet, wonderfully complemented by the rest of the food on the plate. I grew up in a family that re-fried their Krispy-Kreme donuts in butter, and it seemed that this was exactly what Pastry Chef, Catherine Schimenti, had done. It tasted like my childhood with a professional presentation and an out-of-this-world flavor.<br /><br />We asked for the check - which was large - and we were given yet more free bites. Something like Turkish delight - but more coarse and crystalline in texture - and some black pepper madellines. Both provided a surprising and pleasant end to the meal.<br /><br /><a name="recap"><span style="font-weight: bold;">Quick recap</span></a>:<br /></p><ul><li>Knowledgeable, friendly and plentiful staff ( I can't even imagine what it must cost to run that dining room).</li><li>Great wine selection (and knowledge).</li><li>Wonderful, fresh, simple flavors.</li><li>Astonishing technique.</li><li>Expensive - $90 per person with 2 drinks each, a ton of food and 2 deserts.</li></ul><br /><span style="font-weight: bold;">Top dishes:</span><br /><ul><li>Veal Sweetbreads and Kumquat</li><li>All of the Fresh Vegetables and Assorted Mushrooms</li><li>Quail and Wild Huckleberry</li><li>Fresh Donuts with tangerine marmalade, chocolate pudding and vanilla custard</li></ul><b>Recommendation:</b> A definate YES! Make the vegetables the focus of the meal with some of the stranger meats as an exciting, if challenging, accent. Veggies also keep the bill down, which can really be an issue here. Open your mind and go, go, go...but save up first.Maxhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/17210886440957164548noreply@blogger.com0